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I grow six to eight varieties of chiles every summer, something different every year. I’ve got a small backyard in a big city. My outdoor space is pretty limited, so I grow my chile plants in containers on my patio. Given my space and time constraints I have only one guiding principle when deciding what chiles to grow every year: “spend your time growing chiles you can’t find anywhere at any physical/online store at any price”. I love to cook with jalapeños, serranos, poblanos and others on a regular basis, but honestly I can buy those at any local grocery store for pennies a pound. So if I’m going to invest the time I’d prefer to invest it in something that is so special that the only way I’m gonna get it is if I grow it myself.

Every winter for the last ten to twelve years I’ve placed an order for chile plants order from a nursery called ChilePlants.com for delivery in spring. (Full disclosure: I have zero financial interest in that company, not getting paid or compensated in any way to promote them. I’ve just a super satisfied customer who wants them to be around for many, many more years.) These folks offer hundreds of varieties of chile plants for sale, and I enjoy browsing through their catalog over the winter, getting ideas for chiles I’d like to grow, getting inspired for dishes I’d like to cook with them. Its kinda like planning for a fantasy football draft but with chile plants.

This past weekend was Labor Day, summer is winding down. This time of year the chiles with the long grow times are starting to get ready for harvest. Some of the shorter ripen time chiles I’ve been grabbing and cooking with all summer, but the ones that take time to get ripe take time and I only get one round of harvest. Sometimes, unfortunately, the clock runs out on them before the cool Midwest autumn weather kicks in, and I’m left with plants full of frost killed half ripe chiles…

Depending on the type of chile I’ll dehydrate some in a food dehydrator, freeze some, use some immediately. Whatever it takes to keep coasting with these flavors in the kitchen through the winter months.

Some summer chile harvest: chiles de agua, Jimmy Nardellos, Portuguese Hots, orange habaneros

So as I’m starting to think this through myself I thought I’d share some random thoughts on the chiles I’ve grown this summer and the ideas I have about how to cook with them. The thing about growing uncommon or rare chiles is that there’s usually not a lot written about how to use them or recipes that showcase their unique flavors. So I’m just going to throw some ideas out there and hope others find them useful. If you have grown or cooked with any of these varieties I’d love to hear your thoughts/ideas/suggestions. Feel free to either post comments below or email me directly.

Piehole Willie’s 2020 Chile Crop

  • Jimmy Nardello Peppers (Italian)
  • Portuguese Hots (Portuguese)
  • Orange Habanero (totally rando purchase by my wife)
  • Chile de Aqua (Oaxacan)
  • Chilhuacle Negro (Oaxacan)
  • Chilhuacle Rojo (Oaxacan)
  • Chile Bolita (Oaxacan)

Jimmy Nardello Peppers

I love these things, and they’ve been prolific all summer. An Italian pepper, long and bright red, sweet with a mild fruitiness, no heat or spiciness at all. My awesome wife, Mrs. Piehole, cuts them into rings for her salad. I’ve sautéed them a little olive oil and used them as a condiment on steak and cheeseburgers. And I posted about it being the star of the show in The Ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich. Up next is using a couple of Nardello peppers in some homemade Mac & Cheese.

Portuguese Hots

Another long, red chile…but this one packs some heat. Been using this all summer in batches of Portuguese Piri Piri sauce, and using that sauce as a marinade for pork tenderloin, boneless chicken breasts, and shrimp on the grill. I’m sure there are other uses for Portuguese Hots, but right now I’m totally hooked on fresh Piri Piri sauce and will keep grilling with it until… I don’t know… until I run out of them. Also had the thought of adding some of this Piri Piri sauce into a smoked cheese potatoes au gratin, maybe pairing it against smoked cheddar or smoked gouda in that dish. I think that’s an idea worth trying.

Orange Habaneros

There’s a ton of article and recipes on cooking with habs. This was the “accidental” chile plant purchase this year. I wouldn’t typically grow these but the totally amazing wife picked up this plant as a spontaneous purchase earlier this spring, and its been surprisingly prolific. My past experiences with growing habaneros is that they take forever to mature, but this one has just been cranking out ripe orange habs at a record pace this summer. My goal for these is to come up with a Jamaican jerk sauce or marinade, smoke some a spatchcocked chicken or a goat shank with this jerk sauce using pimento wood. I love Jamaican food but haven’t spent a lot of time cooking it, maybe this is the time. (N.B. I know scotch bonnet chiles would be a hair more authentic in a jerk recipe, but sometimes ya just gotta go with what ya have. And at that level of tongue scorching heat I doubt I’ll be able to tell the difference.)

Chile de Agua

I’ve really fallen in love with this Oaxacan chile. To me it tastes uniquely earthy and fruity, with a pleasant amount of spicy heat that builds over time. First thing I did this summer when I got some ripe ones was make a simple salsa to understand its flavor. Next up is to make pure red chili sauce with them, brush some sauce on some chicken thighs, wrap those thighs in Hoja Santa leaves and slow cook them over indirect heat on the grill. This idea was inspired by a similar dish I had in Oaxaca many years ago that I still dream about. Hoja Santa is kinda hard to find, though. You might find it in the produce section of a good Mexican grocer. I couldn’t find it where I live, so I grow it. I’ve had my Hoja Santa plant for several years in a pot that I bring indoors during the winter months. It looks like a leafy fern or foliage plant, requires a lot of water but not a lot of sun, and – seriously – tastes insanely like root beer. Strange but true. If you are unfamiliar with Hoja Santa there is an older article from Saveur Magazine about cooking with it here.

Chilhuacle Negro

Holy cow this one is the Holy Grail of Oaxacan chiles. Hard to find in the States, expensive if you do manage to find it. Chilhuacle negro is THE key ingredient in traditional Oaxacan molé negro. There is no substitute for its rich, robust, fruity, earthy awesomeness. It is a completely and utterly unique flavor. I’ll dry a few of these in a food dehydrator and store them in a cool, dry airtight container for use all winter. Will definitely be making some Oaxacan molé negro soon. It takes about a day to make it, so I’ll typically make it on a Saturday then on Sunday grill up a ribeye, a pork tenderloin, a couple of chicken thighs and a duck breast… and just slather the grilled meat in molé negro and feast on it with friends (assuming we get through this Wuhan quarantine anytime soon, otherwise I’ll be eating that feast alone with the Mrs.). I can’t tell you how much I love molé negro, it is one of the most amazing things I’ve ever tasted. Additionally, I’ve fully dehydrated chilhuacle negros in the past, powderized them, and used them as an ingredient in a dry rub recipe I came up with a couple of years ago (will write that up and post it one day soon).

Chilhuacle Rojo

Another chile I’ve been unable to find at any price in the U.S., this is the first year I’ve ever grown chilhuacles rojos. I’ve got a four foot tall bush on my patio in a half barrel container with about two dozen chiles starting to ripen. Like the chilhuacle negros I’ll dry whatever I get in a food dehydrator and store them. These chiles are a key ingredient in two other classic Oaxacan molés that I’d like to try my hand at in the kitchen this fall: molé rojo and molé coloradito. I’ve never made either of them before, but will be cooking them soon now that I’ve got the key ingredient. More posts to follow on this topic, I’m sure.

Chile Bolita

This is the hottest Oaxacan chile I’ve grown this season. From the Chiltepin/Tepin family of chiles. Very similar to the firecracker pequins I’ve grown many, many times in the past. Its a small bushy plant, about two feet tall, covered with dozens of small chile pods that a slightly larger than a green pea. Ate one of these straight up when it got ripe, tasted fruity and smoky… and then my whole mouth was on fire and my eyes were watering. In other words: “a perfect chile”. I’ve got a few ideas for these. First, I’ll keep most of these in an airtight bag in the freezer and grab 2-4 for of them when I want to add some spicy heat to whatever I’m cooking. A utility player of chiles, they’re small enough to calibrate pretty easily how much heat I’m adding to a dish, so I can just gauge appropriately. Second, I’ll be auditioning them in my signature Jack & Coke BBQ Sauce recipe and see if they become the new regular in that recipe. I prefer a just a little bit of flavorful heat in the sauce I put on my pulled pork, and chiles bolitas might be the next big idea in my BBQ endeavors. Third, I’m going to have to whip up a pot of chili with chiles bolitas in a starring role. I’ve recently been reading about “cowboy chili”, a style of making chili in a smoker by cooking it in a cast iron pot directly on hardwood charcoal. That’s completely in my wheelhouse. My last idea for chiles bolitas is a pork marinade with chiles bolitas, orange juice, oregano, other herbs/spices. Kind of “Oaxacan salsa meets Cuban mojo criollo” marinade for grilled pork tenderloin and boneless chicken breasts. This last idea is still percolating in the back of my head, more to come on this.

That’s my 2020 chile crop, and that’s how I think I’m going to use them. As I said, would love to hear from anyone who has experience cooking with any of these varieties.

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